srbryan N15 Pulsar VZR DP1

Getting to the stage of re-assembly, I wanted to finish up the wiring by soldering the wires i cut.
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Then went looking for my soldering wire and couldn't find it anywhere, spent about half hour looking for it and nothing, I felt so gutted cause it was a fairly new roll aswel.:(

So took off the old oil filter which was an absolute ball ache to get off, it was very hard to get off even with a filter band, was like it was overtightened when it was put on and hadn;t been off in ages.
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Installed new filter and yes i know it's not the nissan filter but it was one i had spare around the place and i plan on changing the oil again after 2000km.
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Filled the engine with oil then
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And also finalised where the realy box was going but then came across a problem of how would i get the cover off to change a relay if i needed to, so i cut one side of it off so i it can still bed slid over the relays and be removed easily if need be.
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And also put back on the passo wing and left it at that, hoping to get loads done tomorrow eve after i get solder:rolleyes:.
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I use 5w-40 fully synthetic now and recommended it by opie oil's as opposed to using 10w40

They know there stuff...i spent 15 minutes rattling with them on the phone
 
I use 5w-40 fully synthetic now and recommended it by opie oil's as opposed to using 10w40

They know there stuff...i spent 15 minutes rattling with them on the phone
Interesting! Did they mention why they recommend it over other grade? I thought 5w would be abit light for an old engine.
 
10w40 will be fine. Its was good enough for the SR in the early 90's and they have lived this long!

Great work so far mate, like the fuse box relocation, should tidy the bay up nicely. Keep it up.
 
Because it's being fully synthetic and doesn't shear so quickly from heat etc and also better flowing when the engines cold and still retain's the same viscosity as the 10w40 blah blah...

Are you only running 1 rad fan? noticed the relay missing is all.
 
Because it's being fully synthetic and doesn't shear so quickly from heat etc and also better flowing when the engines cold and still retain's the same viscosity as the 10w40 blah blah...

Are you only running 1 rad fan? noticed the relay missing is all.

The missing relay is for the aircon, there still 2 fans on the rad.
 
Got my solder and finished tidying up the wiring.
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This is what it looks like at the minute, could change again if i move things about.
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Got the wings on and started putting everything on.
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Put on my magnecor leads.
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engine bay at the minute, will be powerwashed when i pull it out the shed
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I was thinking of dropping the mani and polishing it aswel??

Also started getting the arch liners on.
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I dont buy any of the bullshit oil companies tell you. If its the OEM weight and meets the acea or required standard it will be perfectly fine in my eyes. Basic Oil made 20 years ago didnt ruin these engines so a basic oil made with todays technologies will exceed the standard needed here.
 
I use semi, don't personally see the benefit of a fully synthetic in these engines.

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Installed new filter and yes i know it's not the nissan filter but it was one i had spare around the place and i plan on changing the oil again after 2000km.

Dont worry. Mann are a top brand who make a lot of OE filters etc anyway.

I use semi, don't personally see the benefit of a fully synthetic in these engines.

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I can see reason for using them if you reach high temps on a track......but agreed, not for normal usage. Most fully synthetics ( even Mobile 1 ) aren't even what the name suggests. They are 'blended'. You need an ester synthetic for it to be a true synthetic.
 
if you are regularly up around 120deg I would probably agree a fully synthetic would do you fine. keep it solid with an oil cooler then a semi would still be ok.

everyone will have their preference at the end of the day, i like regular changes with my oil (dumping all of it in a few seconds at 8k rpm on track is my favourite), where you can leave a fully synthetic longer without changes.
 
I'm the same with the oil changes regardless if it's a full or semi, i have to be! "previous service history" dictate's it:D
 
Did a small bit this eve, made up an aerial blank out of some old Perspex I had lying about.
Cut it out to the rough shape.
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And abit of filing and sanding later it was taking shape.
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All I must do now is sand it and smooth off the edges a little bit and paint it then.
 

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Progress has slowed down lately, just waiting for coilovers and exhaust to get here, hopefully due in the next couple weeks.
In the mean time i gave a go at tinting the windows and it didn't come out too bad, side windows are perfect but a few bubbles and creases in the back window but i'll do it again at some stage,
All i have to add are my AOC stickers:D

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Also made a homemade cold air feed for my filter out of ducting pipe and some bit of stainless exhaust i had lying about.
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Ordered all new brakes for it aswel, I didn't go for any fancy shit just standard Pagid gear.
Started with the front and there was 2 different makes of pads either side:eek:

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Old v New

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Painted the carriers
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Just before i gave up for the eve i removed the hideous stickers off the back.
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I bought a "viper piper cross" cai kit and.....it's amazing and far exceed's any intake set-up i had.

No ridiculous boom, just feel's so much more linear and bring's out the beautiful sound of the sr20 at 4-5k.

Remain's cold to the touch also.
 
Not much happening lately been saving and waiting mostly.
Bought another set of wheels, got a set of rota grids this time, wanted these originaley but couldn't find any at the time then saw these come out for the right price so picked them up.
They are blue but I will repspray bronze soon.
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Today after a few months of waiting the first of my orders arrived.
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And full instuctions in Japanese LOL
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They look to be near new and in better condition than i originally thought so should get them fittted either this eve or early tomorrow morning.
Hopefully the exhaust will turn up aswell tomorrow.
 
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