The VE engine has the king of SR oil pumps... It's an upgrade for all SR's. Necessary for VVL I suppose and the squirters under the pistons for cooling at high RPM.
I was often seeing 9 bar oil pressure cold and in VVL.
You should get onto patjoe o connell and mike twomey they have heaps of pulsars for breaking.
That badmoon has been modified the tailpipe has been extended from the rear box by the look of it an n1 came in with that exhaust on it before. The actual size of the opening on the tailpipe is...
Basically wasting your time trying to eek more power out of the 16 as Sam said. Everyone that owned one in Ireland had a go and came to no avail. The common thing everyone done that they found most effective was changing the final drive as in comparison to a Honda the gears are relatively long...
Just order all the stuff through G-spec he is cheaper delivered than anyone and plus can all be delivered in one big box to your doorstep so handy. Whoever he deals with he can still get access to parts that some others can't.
As for the valve's just bring the head to a machine shop they will be able to look at the seats/valve and tell you what needs replacing. They could be fine. Just bring it somewhere very reputable.
Crank and rods wouldn't be big money anyway. Only gave about 150 for mine I think.
Do the 20v pistons give a higher CR than the 20ve pistons and less than the N1's. Would be idea if it did. N1 pistons work but the cr is a little too high and 20ve compression sucks. Actually N1 pistons wouldn't...
Correct was about to say they are sodium filled. Different numbers on the top too. I was told they were thinner on the stem to aid the flow of air into the chamber... Just goes to show the amount of R&D put into these engines.
Part numbers are
N1 Intake 13201-1N520
N1 Exhaust 13202-1N520
When...
There isn't much room for error with the compression they run. The valve contact isn't much of an issue anyway worst case scenario is a couple of valves which can still be got and if unlucky it may have cracked the guides also pennys and would need to be changed while refurbing the head on a...
Ah shite only spotted what you were at now like sam said really. Put it back that way it's the easiest have the loom fully routed and all before it goes back in.
Big ass plate at the back of the mani has to come off. Get your starter reconditioned while it's out. I did because it's a pig of a job once it's back in. All new hoses should be got for the pipes down the back of the inlet also because no one wants to go through that shite.
Yeah I was planning to do that with the hubs spacers are shite!
Powerland doesn't perform he is right almost anyone that looked at it that had a clue of the way manifolds work said it was shite... but they sound soooooo good ha ha.
Thanks for dropping in on the thread.
I may have another Paris but not for the foreseeable future. It's being returned to standard and in a way I'm happy with that.
Also I would nearly prefer it went to Australia it should be reunited with its black brother. Can imagine the two of them...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.