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Did the grinder bite you?

A few bits to keep the updates succinct and regular. I took the original engine mounts and brackets in to work this week as one rubber mount had been cut off and the top cap was seized into the aluminium bracket. It took some doing but finally it came free. I'd ordered some new rubber doughnuts...

Is there a green 'dipped beam' light, or a gap for one, when your ignition switch is turned to the 'ON' position? If not there isn't one.

Is there a light when you first turn the ignition to the 'ON' position? All available lights will self test then fro a few seconds. Either it's broken, in which case you'll see a space where a light should be, or it doesn't exist and you'll see no spaces. I would suspect it may be a blown bulb...

You know it makes sense. ;)

That's the main reason I want to get it bolted down. It's like 5 wires to get it started so I can hear the noises! Not sure about turbo yet. It would have to be 2 though. I was thinking of picking up another T3 and having one for each bank. I need an AEM F/IC - 8 first though really. Just...

Scary.

Definitely good progress. This is the foundation for the rest of the build so it's worth taking some time over and doing properly.

Another half day spent fettling and lining up today. As it stands now I need to fabricate two mounts for the sides and one for the rear of the gearbox. Everything is level, square and straight so As long as I don't move it whilst welding the mounts on it should be straightforward from here...

I'll just knock up some tubular ones. The cast manifolds that are on it as standard are notoriously restrictive anyway. If I lengthen the primaries they'll clear the rails and I can run them alongside. It buys me about 3 inches in overall engine height so well worth doing. It will let me drop...

Tiny little update. Having asked to have space in the barn to work on the '32 and the guy filling it with vehicles and leaving for Easter break, I was forced to start work on the chassis and engine outside. The ultimate goal is to get the engine as low as possible inside the frame without the...

I don't think you've read that right mate. He's after templates for decals I believe. There are some available for the Primera online but I've never seen any for N15 I'm afraid

This little beauty went to its new home this morning. Living on in parts in a C10 Cherry. Rust in Pieces.

BS update. He's got a full workshop and tooling to hand. Should have been finished months ago. I'm striving on on a concrete pad in front of a barn with a welder that doesn't accept a 15kg reel. BILT NOT BORT!

Not to start with mate. Keeping the budget tight to get it on the road and then go from there. I'd be happy with a working engine actually attached to the chassis to be honest at the minute. Just cage it and thrash it round the field ;)

Mounting the engine and finalising body position over Easter weekend. Then it's driveshafts and I can start on the floor and firewall.

The trouble with Dastek is that they often become corrupt and unusable when the maps are updated. I think it's the company trying to force you to buy the latest model really. I've got a Dastek Unichip II on my Stagea but I'm not 100% happy with it so I think I'm going back to standard and...

Dastek piggyback is not the best. If you're going to donut properly you need Nistune and if you're paying out for tuning on the Dastek then it'd be well worth the extra investment.

Most likely an uplift then if the steering lock was on. Handbrake off, pick up the front wheels and drive away. Real shame this. Almeras always seemed a safe bet to me as they're not worth the effort to steal most often because the factory alarm and immobiliser. My old boss always used a...

I'd kill for 31 mpg. I get about half that.