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Did you get the free degreasing wipes too? We use that stuff at work a bit for rust prevention on machined parts.

Those UCA's look like they may kill you at some point. Why not cut the old arm off completely and replace with tube?

I'm just wondering why there is a sudden influx of spam threads on the site? It seems like every day is come in and see some crap about weight loss or clearer skin or exercise classes for the elderly. Surely something can be done to stop the bots getting in, unless of coarse it's human beings...

There's no flange around the bore on the UK ones so not hubcentric really. The others look fine.

Engine hoist for the head? Have you no arms? I lifted an RB 'head off by hand before now (and may do again!). Seriously though that's cracking work buddy.

Fixed

Yes. The hole in the centre of the wheel. 59.1 is the standard bore but anything above that, with spigot rings, would be fine.

Last one is good. Strong calfs.

Excellent stuff. Dash in next then?

LIKE!

RNN14 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R, 230 ps (169.17 kW) / 6400 rpm;(284.39 N*m) / 4800 rpm

I would still consider a move to Nistune or something and move away from the Dastek. Far more support and less likely to become corrupt and unusable in the future. Looking forward to figures though.

Only 11 degrees out then!

I've got a spare distributor if that helps?

It sounds like you have cut them up and made them worse. Just a stab in the dark obviously...

Corwin back in the game?

As above. I think you're lacking the fine tuning that is required with a good spec high comp build like yours. The time and money you've spent more than warrants Nistune/Nismotronic or even standalone. As for the BTCC cars, I'm pretty sure that there were restrictions on the octane of the fuel...

Is it definitely det and not valve bounce/float? What springs are you running?

99 RON?

Seems very involved for a simple job. Filler spreader, toffee wheel and degreaser. No paint damage or scratches, job done in 2 minutes and a pleasant smell from the wheel.