98gti's 97VZR

Sweet ride, minus the window wind things. Makes me think my black 5 door could look better with skirts, proper sized exhaust and the p2 GTi rear end. The lights and grill are also lush.
 
Excellent info sam.
If I understand it I should be using rods of as near the N1 rod weight as possible to balance the pistons & rods then balance the crank to match?
Craig is using CP's so should he use lighter rods to match the lighter pistons & have the crank balanced to that?
 
98GTi said:
Excellent info sam.
If I understand it I should be using rods of as near the N1 rod weight as possible to balance the pistons & rods then balance the crank to match?
Craig is using CP's so should he use lighter rods to match the lighter pistons & have the crank balanced to that?
Click to expand...


what he said?...
 
N1 and 16VE rods weigh more than the SR20 ones as there longer.. just get some 2.0 rods stick the pistons on bash a crank in and play.. were not building racing cars..

get the crank balnced with the flywheel if you really want and youll be fine..

aslong as you get the correct sized bearings and the rings in fine then it will be alright.
 
True but whats the point in a half arsed build. I wouldn't have bothered with the N1 head if I was going to just throw it together.
 
building it with the right bearings and balancing the crank and flywheel is not a half arssed build..

all you can do to "balance the rods and pistons" is weigh them and make sure there all as close to gether as possible you carnt ballance the crank to the pistons and rods unless your going to go through a shit load of convoluted maths to find out the exact weight of the counter weight for each bore then and try to match that force through working out the force the rods and pistons will put on the other end..

what are you building exactly a 2.0 or a 1.6 N1?
 
2 litre N1.
I'm following a budget sr20de build by Mike kojima for the block. He seams to believe the crank/piston + rod balance is not strictly necessary but beneficial & relatively cheap.
I was looking at the process of removing the difference between the weight of the stock pistons/rods and the new from the counterweights then attaching bob weights to the crank of the same mass as the new rods & pistons & fine tuning the balance.
There will be a lot of things in my build that people will not think are necessary but he was expecting to make 200bhp from that DE without any heavy head or block machining & if he can achieve that on the DE it should be worthwhile on the VE.
 
but the crank is rotating and it doesnt have a fixed weight acting on the piston side. It has the piston and the rod with a 150od lb ft of explosive turning force pushing it down then on the other side its got the momentum of that piston and rod wanting to stop it turning...
 
I thought the theory was that the kinetic energy in the mass of the piston & rod is balanced by an equal mass on the opposite side of the crank. So surely it's better to match them as close as possible.
 
thing is though theory is one thing doing it is another.. if you have all the gear to do it then thats cool but iv seen a supoised experts atempt at knife edging and balancing just a carnk and he made a complet dogs bollocks of it and it was a throw away and start again..

i dont want to sound like an ass im just trying to tell you that all the hassle wont be worth it.. our engines are strong little bastard as is and with a weight matched set of rods and pistons with a balanced crank and fly wheel youll be able to rev it till the cows come homw and theres not much chance of you messing parts up that you'll have to re-buy...
 
All good no doubt Sam lol.

Done around 7000 miles since I built it. Still same spec, still not properly mapped.
Ended up having to put it back on the road as my daily drive so never got it completed to the level I wanted. Now I want to go a bit further with it now I have a new daily drive & it's off the road again.
 
Current spec:
SR20DE 4cwt crank
Manley h beam rods
Skimmed, ceramic coated N1 pistons
N1 head
N1 cams
Jwt cam gears
ARP head studs
Cometic 2mm head gasket
SR16 intake manifold ported & enlarged
Emanage
Exedy updated clutch
Stock SR16 gearbox
Polybushed
BC coilovers
Tomei rims
Toyo R1R's
HKS air filter
Clutch, crank, crank pulley, flywheel balanced
Pistons & rods weight matched.

I have a set of M3 throttle bodies but not sure if I want to go with itb's, turbo, or just get decent ecu and get it mapped?
 
a proper ecu (nismotronic) mapped will see you well.

The comp would be too high for turbo.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom