Almeragt´s SR20VE Almera

done some basic suspension alignment last week - pictures from the loading on the truck, before the suspension setup - on the way from the garage to the shop. Don´t have any pictures after the alignment, but looks much better.
We will do another alignment next week = corner weigh, setup of the height, racing geometry... And also first start of the engine done - fortunately all runs fine...
pred geometriou 2, 30.8.17.jpg
pred geometriou upravene 30.8.17.jpg
corner weighing, setting of the height done. Race geometry will follows on Thursday again, We have to change some settings.
Total weight of the car is around 1018 kg...
Jesus the effing christ's sake, i thought my N16 building was over the top but you've taken the like, top of the line tuning for most of any cars ever known to man and wiped the floor with that and raised the bar.

This stuff is just, it's not great, that's too weak word, it's far beyond amazing or incredible, you've literally put so much money, effort and parts into that car that you're probably running the fastest N15 in the world after you got the car completed again...

Seriously, that level of dedication to one car... most of us would most likely give up instead of taking everything out of the car just to make it all over...

Only the fenders are not CF yet i guess? could save couple kilos there maybe but you're already past the ridiculously great level of modding here.

I really wonder how you're going to mod it next... that thing just simply is, well, compared to most of other users here, simply said the difference between Pro modding and common modding.

Though we all have different views / tuning points onto things and you're trying to make the car as light and powerful as possible with N/A engine while for example i have taken the weight of the car up and done nothing to the engine yet, i'm working the basics first and compensating the weight later, maybe trying to turbo or something even though i'd love to see a SR engine under my bonnet too.

Have you ever thought of throwing in a SR20VET with or without the turbo? the point of the SR20VET is that you'd get AWD, that's probably one of the really few things you're missing right now, that N15 with AWD would not only be the fastest N15 in world but also the only one with AWD in it, AWD could fix quite many problems but it adds weight though so that might not be nice for what you're trying to do here, also it'd change the characteristics of the car...

Though, throwing in another engine would be ridiculous after spending so much on that one and the nicest thing about it is the fact it's N/A engine instead of a turbo and it's doing, what, near 300 horses now? it is a 2.0 liter VE engine, granted but that's the same level of power that one Malaysian Almera (N16 though) has made with two turbos on 1.8 liter QG engine... that's just ridiculously high amount of power considering the fact it's a N/A engine... the Silvias with the SR20DE for example can only dream about 300 horses, i think the most powerful N/A Silvia from factory with SR20DE is like 200 and turbo around 280, so either way it's impressive.

Meanwhile i have 116 horses and my engine is very oxygenated so it's not pretty either and the N16 as a whole is less sporty than the N15 and the only reason i don't have N15 is the fact the only proper one cost more than my N16 and it had 2.5 times more mileage on it... granted if the N15 was like yours i'd bought that but i'm pretty sure nobody has took a N15 this far in tuning...

Though, doing this much tuning alone (here that is) would cost close to a cost of a brand new C13 Pulsar Nismo (if it ever comes that is, it's been what, 3 years? now since the announcement and even the 1.6 turbo was late)

Granted, the Nismo wouldn't be anywhere near as fun to drive or own, more practicality maybe but you can't really tune anything about a C13 and since it's a Nismo it's already maxed out on power (theoretically), i guess you could throw in a chip to get maybe 20 horses more which'd take it to around 300s (stock is rumored to be like 280)

Either way my wall of text must come to an end (otherwise it could be called a novel and printed & sold on the shelves of a bookstore), keep up with the great, inspiring work and keep on with the mods, reading this thread really made me want to great a SR20 and double my horses but then i remembered i don't have money to even pay for proper paint coats for my "new" set of wheels or for the tires for them, fun's not free i guess.

PS. Two "short" questions : have you ever thought of throwing in AWD system and have you thought of changing the wheels to racing wheels (for racing purpose whenever you do that), i believe Sparco for example has really lightweight set of 15/16 inch wheels and you'd save many kilos with the entire set, though you have the big brakes so they might not fit in first place which is probably why you don't have those?
Im going to say two things;

N15s were offered from the factory with AWD.

I would say that forged BC wheels constitute racing wheels.
Oh good point Liam, i forgot about the Autech(?), my bad there.

Though, that N15 AWD wasn't ATTESA if i'm not wrong?

I'm not exactly most knowledgeable about N15 other than the widely known basics, N16 'yo.
to Dretzor:
many thanks! To your questions:
- yes, fenders are not CF - it is too expensive comparing to weight savings /around 5-7 kgs togeter/. I would do that during the winter, if there are more guys who wants them /at least 2-3 cars and even in this case the price woulod be around 1000 EUR for 2 fenders including the form.../
- as you mentioned, my point is to make the car as light as possible with powerful N/A engine together with reasonable lifetime of the engine and safety of the car. Car could be much lighter, but it doesn´t work if you want to have a nice curb which will not get rust, nice paint and so on... We will see, engine shouold produce around 260hp /maybe more, or maybe less.../, but We can´t forget the gearbox - gearbox makes the difference in the feeling, as the gears will be very close and very short, so you will get more power on the road and much better acceleration.
I always wanted a fast car for my purposes = car which turns great, is great on the brakes and has very good grip. If you add a small weight and good power = that´s a good concept for me . So as you said, every one has different point of view...

- To be honest, I was never thinking about VET or AWD. I don´t want to change the concept of the car which came from the factory. And another point - I think that this car is fastest in the turns with N/A engine, so I can´t see any point to use a turbo. For me is the right example Almera kit car....
Would be nice for the next project = AWD + VET, but for sure not for this car and not for me. I would love to see someone else to do it - so please do it...
I don´t want to make any other big mods in the future - just a minor changes and keep the car running in good condition and enjoy driving it. I want to drive it on the hills, at some circuits and for the fun in the weekends.
- regarding the wheels - this car needed much better grip. My example is Almera Kit car and I´m using the same diameter of the wheels = 8x18, as light as possible and 225/40/18 tire size. BC Forged are light and hard wheels. They weigh only 7.2 kg in this diameter, what is great. And as you mentioned, I can´t get smaller wheels than 17 inches, due to the big brakes...


Staff member
Very cool, only thing that lets it down (for me) is the headlights, could do with a set of GTi or VZR's
Looks amazing! Have you got a side on picture?
unfortunately not, as the car was on the jack... I will make some pictures later on /and hopefuly better ones/

Regarding the headlights - Sam is right. These are not GTi headlights - just painted OEM Nissan Almera headlights. To be honest, new set of GTi headlights cost around 700-800 EUR. I don´t feel like I want to spend so much Money right now... To buy a used ones is not possible and healights from UK, Japan or Ireland are not acceptable, as they shines different and that is not allowed on our streets...


Staff member
The paint colour of the body works very well with the carbon parts. Looks great.
Many thanks!
I will share some details from the geometry:
weight of the car is below 1020 kgs
weight distribution is:
approx. 40% vs 60% /rear vs front/
approx. +- 5kg on each side incl. the driver weight

camber: -2° negative
caster: 1°22´
toe: toe out 5 minutes on each side

camber: -2° negative
toe: toe settled to 0 /OEM setting is toe in/

I have to drive the car and check, if it´s O.K. or not and check, if We have to something change or not. This is just a basic alignment
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Very nice, the weight is good and the distribution is very good!

2° negative camber on the rear should be a vast improvement!
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