another sr16ve owner

V

VZ-AAAH

Hiya

Im a proud owner of a 98 sr16ve pulsar vzr 5dr. The car is actually still shipping over from Japan.

I wasn't sure whether they actually made the vzr n1 in a 5door or 4 door version. so i just bought a normal one as the mileage was just 36k. its black, in very good standard condition and I can't wait to put n1 parts in to it. how hard can it be to convert it to an n1? I like 175 bhp but i'd love 197 bhp or more.

I cannot sleep at night in the long wait. still have 4.5 weeks to wait.

At present Im driving a 97 1.6SLX Almera 4 door. its a lovely motor and i will miss it. (its beginning to get rust on the arches and sills :( ) My new car on the other hand has been kept in mint condition with no rust! im gonna do this auto glym thing where your paint work wont rust for 5 years.

i was thinking of the GTi which my m8 just bought. but in the uk they only have 3 door versions. I have a crying baby and family so it had to be at least 4 door. Ive had 2 4door almera's. one silver 2.0d that was imported from Japan and was a diesel Automatic which was rare and nice in the uk for the price. i saw another one for sale in vzr mode recently but had already bought my 5 door. 5 doors will be more practical what with prams and that.

Anyway, Glad to be on board.

SLiM
 
youl need the whole engine to convert it to an N1 ;) best bet is getting a 20ve bottom end and putting that on there, which should net you over 200 :D
 
You need to change the pistons, skim the head 1mm, mild port job on the intake side, change the intake manifold, change the throttle body and the ECU, oh and the cams, and retainers and springs and the rocker cover.

So quite a bit really...LOL!
 
the autoglym thing is a con... all is does is try and prevent small scratches etc. it will rust from the inside out anyway

you will want to get it thourougly undersealed though as i believe imports aren't sealed in japan due to the fact they dont salt the roads. so no rust.

as for N1 conversion. good luck with that :lol: parts are rocking horse crap.
 
Theres bound to be an n1 engine for sale soon

More then likely mine

Im sure the dirty scum will sell it at some stage

So keep an eye out around ireland :(
 
It was pretty easy to buy really because I used a long experienced importer to take care of all. they have their own offices in Tokyo and can source vehicles and check them whilst they are still in Japan. Then they arrange the transport via Sea to Bristol or southampton. they then collect it from port and then get it all ready for uk usage ( odometer, speedo, rear foglight etc) after all that is done they will sort log book and mot and then transport to my house address.

It was not as costly as it sounds. I paid a bit much for the car, but the mileage was so low i could not resist. its like 3 years usage. it all cost less than £3.5k

my mrs thinks im mad for buying an 11 yr old car for that price. i told her hey, its more like 3 yrs old and there is no body corrosion!

ive always wanted a performance undercover car. im gonna debadge at the back and blow away alot of cars at the lights. imagine their jaws dropping, they wont be able to sleep at night.

i think im just gonna go for something like:

straight through exhaust + decat
AEM Induction kit
N1 water pump
nismo low temp thermostat
remap

or something along those lines. how much of a bhp increase will that get me do u think?

are fse boost valves still in fashion? i havn't been catching up on the modding scene for about 5 years.

Mr SLiM
 
Almeraraje said:
the autoglym thing is a con... all is does is try and prevent small scratches etc. it will rust from the inside out anyway

you will want to get it thourougly undersealed though as i believe imports aren't sealed in japan due to the fact they dont salt the roads. so no rust.

as for N1 conversion. good luck with that :lol: parts are rocking horse crap.
Click to expand...



thanks for the advice. im going to look into rust proofing.
 
Nice! From the pic I'd definately try removing the roof bars :)

Rather than an N1 water pump you could go for the electric one like Rowdy_GTi has, also removes the water pump pulley freeing up a few horses.
 
Corbs said:
Rather than an N1 water pump you could go for the electric one like Rowdy_GTi has, also removes the water pump pulley freeing up a few horses.
Click to expand...


I wouldn`t recommend this for a daily driver ( not heater ! )...iirc you only need the N1 pulley as its larger.
 
Hi

The N1 pump I have ordered has the larger pulley included. (and a metal gasket) why take the risk of overheating with a slower pump? ive seen a few sr16ve's online doing upto 12 or 15k revs. I suppose cooler engine normally means more power too. the performance radiator and nismo thermostat should knock things cooler too.

I want to rev high without worrying about over heating.
 
All right I feel I should barge into this.
The vids you've seen are no more than 10K. Usually 9250rpm. You may seen the videos but you didn't notice the details, comments and description.

The is no N1 water/oil pump. They are the same with sr16ve.
There is N1 water pump pulley which is 1mm larger than the stock but it does not work on sr16ve pumps.
The stock water pump is very sufficient especially as the revving grows.
If you place the pulley it will make things worse. Your engine will hit up faster as long as it stays in low rpms.
Soon temperature grows it takes quite some time to drop again.

You don't need the thermo. The engines are meant to operate at ~80C and will not lower that.
To place a lower temp thermo you need to alter an ecu setting which tells the engine when it's warmed up and ready to operate at maximum performance. This setting is at 75C on all sr16ve ecus so until you reach that temp your engine will not perform the maximum and it will burn more fuel.

You can rev up to 8500 on a stock sr16ve with tuned ecu.

p.s None of the vvl engines produces the factory power claims. They are near to do so by ecu tuning.
 
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