Do I need 3-bar air line or not to remove the VVT sprocket on an Almera N16 1.5S petrol?

I

ItsMe

Hi
I foolishly offered to change the timing chain on my impoverished daughter's 2003 N16 Almera 1.5S. With help from people on this forum I have removed the sump and timing cover. My original intention was not to renew the inlet VVT sprocket as it did not appear worn but then I found that Nissan's poor design means you have to remove the sprocket to get the chain off!`
In the Haynes manual it says you have to use a 3-bar air gun to allow the insertion of a 3mm allen key in a hole otherwise something internal could be sheared off, requiring the purchase of a new sprocket. It shows a picture where air should be applied and the use of the allen key, which is only to be removed after fitment.

Elsewhere I have read that this only applies to the Almera Tino, though I can't find the reference now.
Please see pics

Looking at my engine the place where air is to be applied has nothing behind it - you can see my towel under the hole.
Could someone please confirm that I can remove the sprocket without damaging it!
OilwayAlmera.jpg
IMG_5452_myOilway.jpg IMG_5453_intake sprocket.jpg
 
I thought there was a snall hole on the pulley to put the air into with another hole for the allen key.
 
It is just that Haynes says in Section 7 para 6
'Using an airgun apply a minimum of 3bars air pressure to the oil passage leading to the variable valve inlet sprocket (see illustration).'
My first picture is the 7.6 illustration referred to
 
Thanks for trying
I went into my Nissan agent to order an O-ring (£4 + VAT!) and they kindly printed the EM-39 and EM-40 camshaft pages of the current FSM which show that it is the right hand rear hole that has to be on an air line. I have attached the two pages which aren't in my FSM. Does anyone have a link to the current QG version of the FSM?
camshaft_EM39a.jpg camshaft_EM40a.jpg
 
Well I didn't know that when I made my post! Seems very clear.
Easy when you have the manual hence my final question:)
 
I love cars:(
Did the job as explained. Started her up and got a flood of oil on the floor. Haynes doesn't mention fitting 2 new O-rings between the block and timing cover and the FSM just says 'Install O-rings to cylinder block'
I knew what had happened and have just wasted a few hours draining the coolant and oil and dropping the sump again and cleaning everything again.
Easy job but not as straightforward as other cars and worse when you do it twice.......
Anyone got a suggestion how to keep them in place while you gently refit the cover? There is a 3mm metal backing which goes in the block

IMG_5454_squashedO-ring1.jpg IMG_5455_squashedO-ring3.jpg
 
Could put an ever so slight kink in the section which retains it in the block, just enough to cause a slight drag into the hole.
 
IMG_5457_HiddenCoverBolts.jpg I have suggested a non-interference engined Mazda!
Job done and engine running well after resetting the idle.
For anyone interested it is possible to do the job without removing the exhaust or central support. You only have to remove the rear alloy casting to get access to one sump nut, and the front 'gusset' at the transmission end. The sump comes off easily using a 2.5mm angled building angle. The VVT cog is easy if you have access to a >3-bar air gun. The timing cover comes off easily if you note the two hidden bolts (see pic). To avoid having to redo the job, if either of the oil line o-rings between the block and the timing cover is detached when dismantling put a dab of grease on its rear and/or remove the two location dowels. I used a FAI TCK32 kit from ebay seller premier-factors (item 191211002448, £87.08 inclusive delivery): this contains the crankshaft and 2 fixed sprockets, the guides, crankshaft oil seal and sealant. At . It isn't best practice, but as there was very little wear it wasn't worth paying another £138.32 for the £225.40 TCK32VVT kit. Total cost £110 including oil and coolant.
Thanks for the help.
 
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