Spooks SR20DE Engine Build

I thought I'd better stick up something about what I'm doing for those who may be interested. There are quite a few engine builds going on at the minute on the forum, mostly Turbo, so here's my plans for some good N/A power.
Having been an Almera owner on-and-off for 4-5 years now I'd always been interested in squeezing power out of the very capable SR20DE. During this time I'd been fortunate enough to pick up a lot of spares and some special extras that I always planned on fitting to my road car. Having scrapped the last Gti in the summer I thought I'd better see what actual bits I'd accumulated. After a quick rummage around I realised that I probably had enough parts to build a full spare engine.

The spec I'm aiming at is:
53J Ex-BTCC non- Roller Rocker Cylinder head with titanium retainers, uprated valve springs, Tomei Solid lifter conversion, Super-Tech lave stem seals and genuine Nismo race cams.
Pulsar GTI-R 54C Engine block with knife-edged SR20VE Crank, Nissan Bearings, GTI-R con rods and 8.3:1 GTI-R pistons, Crank Scraper, full Mains Girdle and Baffled sump.

I have all of the above with the exception of the crank scraper, baffled sump which I will be fabricating once the bottom end is built.

I've been concentrating on building the head first. Trying to tackle one thing at a time to avoid a load of jobs being half finished all at once.

The cylinder head had been in hibernation for a while so unboxed it to check it over.
This thing has been decked within an inch of it's life. A good 2+mm has been taken off.
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You can just see the thread beginning to break through on the bottom right of the picture from the water inlet mounting stud.
There is some light detonation damage around the edges of the bores but I don't think it will cause too much of a problem later on (famous last words!)

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You can see how the oilways have been tear-dropped to blend in with the gasket shape. The mating surface of the head has been skimmed and then lightly sanded with a random orbital sander. This supposedly helps with the gasket sealing onto the head.
The valves are standard size but they have suffered a lot of corrosion/ detonation damage so these will be replaced by a nice used set I have in storage. The valve springs are all in good condition bar one on the inlet side of cylinder 4 which has snapped in half. I'll be looking at getting a single replacement once I have another spring tested for spring rate and other specs. Otherwise I will be looking to get another set of springs.
The valve stem seals had began to break down too so they will be replaced when I change the valves.


Onto the camshafts. They appear to be genuine Nissan blanks and are labelled up as Nismo 7862 on the ends. These are old pics from when I first got them. They have since been cleaned and checked over for straightness.

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Chunky lobe action ;)

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You can see how the lobe itself isn't symmetrical so it has a more gradual opening phase and more aggressive closing phase. As these were designed for solid lifters (smaller base circle in comparison the HLA based cams) I had to source some. Luckily I'd seen Jagy was selling some of his gear from his race engine so a quick PM and Paypal transaction had Tomei solid lifters winging their way from Czech Republic. I have yet to put these in the head as I still need to sort rocker arms before I can measure up the cam clearance so I can order shims to suit.
That's it for the first instalment. There will be more to come in future days and weeks.
 
I'll be making a custom plenum for it with some nice trumpets inside. Possibly using stock runners and have the trumpets adjustable length for tuning. I'll worry about that stuff once the long block is complete though as it's going to be a slog to get to that stage. Should be a steep learning curve anyway.
 
Cheers guys. Not sure where it will end up when it's finished I'm just concentrating on making something that works well and hopefully lasts.
 
Just a little bit of background to what's happening and where it's all taking place.
I'm lucky enough to have use of a farmers barn and yard about 10 minutes down the road from my house. My Dad sub-lets a field to the guy so he gives us both space for storage and workspace. I've got a full welding rig up there and stored all my car and engine parts. Anyone who saw my breaking thread when I scrapped my red Gti in the summer would have seen pics of the yard and the mahoosive hoist frame that is there. Well on site is also a shed. Now my Dad is an infamous hoarder and any usable space is often filled with useless crap within minutes so I figured I'd help him have a sort-out and clear away a lot of the crap he's got, hang it up or stack it away. This left actual room to move around and almost half a workbench for me to fill with my own stuff. Now there is no heating or lighting in the shed so if you're expecting me to be pulling all-nighters in the snow to get this built you are sorely mistaken. This is a weekend and spare daylight hours project. It's as much a technical exercise as anything and I'm hoping to learn a lot by doing it.
The block I'm using originally belonged to Spyke's mate who kindly sold it to me for a very reasonable price due to it developing a knock in the bottom end. I managed to secure the old cylinder head too which has given me some good spares and practise on valve fitting and stuff.
It came with a crank and rods that were out of the block. The crank had some bad scoring on number 2 rod journal so I have secured a SR20VE crank to replace it. I think that a 4CW crank will be better suited to the build.
There was also some slight damage to the thrust bearing surface on the side of the middle saddle on the bottom end of the block but it's really minor so I cant see it being an issue going forward.

Three heads are better than one!
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10 man points for anyone who can identify all 3 ;)

It was getting a bit cramped on the bench and I was worried about scratching up the faces of the heads on the bench so I knocked up some cylinder head stands at work from some scrap material.

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Another shot of the cams sitting where they should be.

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More to come soon...

I'm not doing this all day-by-day by the way. I've just got a lot of stuff to catch up on!
 
Have you kept all the cam journals im order and with each head? Looks like fun :D

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
The BTCC head came without any cam journal caps so It will all be going on the CMM at work to be measured and matched before fitting. I've kept the others in a little box stood up in order in case I need them later on. Plenty of choice so hopefully get away without having to line bore it. There are lots of spares and left overs!
The main concern now is the rockers. The only ones I have are from the GTI-R head. I'm struggling to find the rocker ratio to see if they are different and also if they need to run with the spring clips or not.
 
Regarding the Nissan blanks. Have you measured them? Can you use them straight up, or will they require machining/heat treating?

Good luck with the build.
 
They are fully ground camshafts made from Nissan blanks. It was just a side note really so that people realised that they weren't any specially made billet jobbies or anything. They have been used in this head so are fully working. I've had a cursory measure with my vernier and there is 8mm difference between the base circle diameter and the lobe height which (I think) equates to 12.54mm total valve lift with standard non-roller rockers. I did actually revolve the cams with a rocker to makes sure it all went together ok and it opened both valves ok but the GTI-R double springs I trialled got very close to coil bind and that's without the lifter being shimmed which would only make it worse.
 
Well little update. One step forward: two steps back.
I took the exhaust valves and springs out last week to fit new valve stem seals and check the general condition of it all. On inspection the valves were quite pitted on the bottom of the stem, where it sits in the exhaust port below the valve guide. The valves themselves have been worked slightly and reground at some stage so I had a thought, why not turn down the stem diameter to remove the pitting and improve flow!

The valves out
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Having researched a bit on aftermarket valves and some of the work Mazworks has done with flow testing, the 7mm stems could easily be reduced to 6mm (the same as the inlet valves) on the bottom portion and that would improve gas velocity.
I took the whole set to work to see if what the guys thought about the job. The consensus was that providing the material wasn't too hard it would be a straightforward job. We ran a file over the corroded part and it seemed soft enough to cut. I left it on the bench last night and thought now more about it. This morning I came in to find a white powdery residue on the outside of the stem. I cleaned it off and looked a bit closer. I could see a hairline crack where the powder was. At this point I knew it was only going one way so I took the stem in one hand between my finger and thumb and the valve head in the other hand and snapped it clean off! It took a ridiculously small amount of pressure so I'm glad it wasn't in the engine when it failed.

Pictures anyway to look at the damage I've caused.
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A little look at some of the features of this valve
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Close up of the head itself. Can you guess what it is yet?

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That's right! Sodium filled valves! That is the reason it failed so easily. The wall thickness was 2mm when first made and the corrosion had obviously reduced that by quite a bit. The powdery residue was the sodium reacting with the air, reacting and forcing the cracks open.
On a lighter note I do still have a full set of exhaust valves from a Sunny GTI which are the same but will need grinding to match the vale seats. They are super clean so will be going in as-is. No more messing around (with the exhaust side anyway :) )

Here are the valve I will be using now
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I also got some new stem seals today from Chunky (cheers buddy) to replace the ones a scrapped last weekend.
Those will be going in soon and also hopefully I will be able to get my valve spring tested so that I can buy a replacement for the snapped one.
More updates soon... probably.
 
Check the length of the valves as i suspect the set for that head are 54C GtiR valves, different length to 53J. I say that because of the spring retainer collet grooves difference.
 
Check the length of the valves as i suspect the set for that head are 54C GtiR valves, different length to 53J. I say that because of the spring retainer collet grooves difference.

The ones that were in it have '5J' on the head. They measure up at 101.8mm long though so not sure as te standard DET type are specced at 102.4 online. I do however just happen to have a full set of GTI-R valves as well. They don't fit in the seats though I don't think as I trialled one a little while ago.
 
Little update on this. The project has been lying dormant for a while as I had hit a dead end with identifying what valve springs I have.
One of the pesky blighters was snapped when I got it so it was a straight choice to either buy a whole new set for £300 odd or try and identify what brand they were and see if I could get a single spring. I measured up all the relevant dimensions such as height, ID, OD, number of coils and wire thickness. Once I had done all that there were still quite a few options to choose from. The only factor I hadn't got was the spring rate. I've ben asking around for ages but no one could help me out.
In the end I had an idea that a calibration company may be able to point me in the right ballpark. I went over to a company that calibrates industrial equipment and scales to see if they could help. After chatting up the reception staff for a bit they brought out the manager. He was a really helpful guy and he said that provided that I could get a fitting for the top of the spring, so that it wouldn't fly off, he would get his man in the workshop to take a look. So I turned a boss that fitted in the spring and had a flange at the top to retain the spring last week. I went over there today and he managed to give me 5 points of (Lbs) load to (mm) displacement.
A few minutes on Excel and I had a spreadsheet with a graph and an average Lb/mm. This came in at around 7.9 so I went back to my shortlist of possibilities and googled the crap out of them. The trouble is that different companies quote different units for spring rate and some only quote seat pressure and pressure at full compression. In the end I decided it was Supertech's SPRK-H1020S Springs that I needed. They don't advertise them individually but I send them an e-mail and they can supply a single spring for $15.58, that's £9.40! I know I'll get hit with postage and maybe customs but that is dirt cheap!
Anyway now that little hurdle has been overcome I can drill out the valve guides and get a quote for grinding the stems on my spare 53J valves.
Should I manage to get it all done it's reputedly good for 9000 RPM. I won't be going near that but nice to know it will be able to take anything I plan to throw at it. After that I can concentrate on the bottom end.
Much to do but with the lighter evenings I hope to make good progress over the next few weeks/months.
Thanks for watching
 
Does customs not kick in at £20?

If so get 16 individual springs sent to 8 mates and you've got a new set for half price* :)

* ish, depending on shipping.
 
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