Eddies Ride

im just saying cant see any benefits what so ever from sealing a ring onto the door when the whole back end of the speaker enclosure is open. essentially its like me trying to get a good sound out of my pa system if i take the back end of my enclosure lol

every little helps applies when the correct things are done lol. im out! laters
 
Eddie. The comments are right to an extent but don't take it as gospel. The baffle ring is essential for a good solid mounting location for the driver itself. Let others find this out for themselves. Sound deadening material is also another very good buy. Do the outer door skin and also do the inner skin. This will fill in the gaps in the metal work to create an "air tight" enclosure to an extent. Don't block off drainage holes for obvious reasons. Before covering up the holes in the metalwork on the inner door skin you should maybe look into aluminium sheeting cut to size and pop rivet them into place. Good sound reproduction can be achieved in a car but it takes time and money.

Look into the likes of dynamat for the door skins or if you want to do it on the cheap (and I mean cheap) head to b and q and buy roof flashing tape.
 
if you dont want to do it the expensive way they go for roof flashing, thinner than dynamat but also a fraction of the cost. with it being thinner it means lighter but you need more layers of it to equate to one layer of dynamat.

two layers on the outer skin and 1 layer on the inner skin so 'seal' the door as best as possible but if you go down this route, then please please make a mdf baffle for the driver to mount on. make sure you bolt it to the door itself. do it once do it right.

cov comparing a car door to his PA speaker with no back is bollocks! the door itself with the door card in place will act like a speaker cabinet. just make sure if you go down this route to at least seal the inner skin to help with audio reproduction. its one thing i have left to do on mine but when i done it on my old mera. fuck me it made a difference, tigther, punchier mid bass and also means you can drive the speakers a wee bit harder as they will not bottom out as easy
 
hardc0re_tid said:
if you dont want to do it the expensive way they go for roof flashing, thinner than dynamat but also a fraction of the cost. with it being thinner it means lighter but you need more layers of it to equate to one layer of dynamat.

two layers on the outer skin and 1 layer on the inner skin so 'seal' the door as best as possible but if you go down this route, then please please make a mdf baffle for the driver to mount on. make sure you bolt it to the door itself. do it once do it right.

cov comparing a car door to his PA speaker with no back is bollocks! the door itself with the door card in place will act like a speaker cabinet. just make sure if you go down this route to at least seal the inner skin to help with audio reproduction. its one thing i have left to do on mine but when i done it on my old mera. fuck me it made a difference, tigther, punchier mid bass and also means you can drive the speakers a wee bit harder as they will not bottom out as easy
Click to expand...

yeah because a 15" driver needs a cabinet the size of a living room doesnt it. . . . . same as a tiny speaker and a huge door!

look forward to seeing the car with a nismo front end ed :D
 
the door card and door will act like a cabinet? yeh a shallow, yet massively wide, horrible shaped cabinet made of tinny metal. perfect :stuart:

car audio is nothing more than mediocre at its best, you can't hear it properly the second the engines runnin and you're moving, you can't listen properly if you're concentrating on driving, it's pointless.

/end hifi geek rant.


nismo splitter will be awesome eddie, vzr skirts and spats next...
 
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