G's Vzr N1

Pistons, rods, crank, boring out block. That's the extra cost. £2k for that? On top of buying the 2.0 bottom end and sundries.
 
Your probably right! and it's easy for peep's like me go on then 2.2 it but it aint my dough.
Must be a killer owning vvl when it all goes wrong:(
 
Sam said:
Don't need to bore the block. Just drop the crank/rods/pistons in.
Click to expand...

so what spec crank/rods/pistons do I need? ..I assume 20ve block would be the one to go with? pistons I think I know which ones, going by some of the threads read on the dash...
 
The pistons my kit uses are stock size 86mm so no boring required, its currently tied up in a deal though atm.
 
I would be checking over the block to ensure it is OK, main cap bores etc if they have suffered at all. Anything reused is going to need a lot of cleaning, I would replace all of the oiling system, pump, pick up etc.
Basically anywhere oil goes needs cleaning and flushing. Think oil filter housing, solenoid block etc
 
reason for above, was thinking of 20v block, using the crank and rods that come with it, and maybe 86mm pistons as what you've been using for your existing setup..would they require any work? for valve clearance?

including :

new oil pump
new water pump,
new bearings,
piston rings,
VET Headgasket
new chain

get the head cleaned out
 
If you can get a complete 20ve bottom end inc pistons I would go with that and put your head on it, you will need to convert the chain it runs though, either the 20v cam gears onto the n1 cams or swap the 20v bottom end to the normal VE chain.

It may be an idea to clay the motor though with the N1 head on it to check the piston to valve clearance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom