N16 SR20DE
- Thread starter Liam
- Start date
Maybe a small Lucino Badge on the grill 
Yeah can see the attachments dude
Ammar, GTFO this is no N15 :lol: Ive got one of these to go on...
Renault ftw lol
Liam - if I see any Renault badges on your N16 at Scottish Modified, you're in for a good kicking ! :lol:
Ill best be prepared for a kicking then :lol:
Well, yesterday my OBDII stuff arrived from Phil (thanks dude) and after a little issue with the software last night, i went and plugged it into the car this morning, which gave me
P0135 Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141 Bank 1 Sensor 2
HMMMMMM. Ive cleared the codes but the MIL is still on.... Does NATS put the MIL on? IE would it have triggered it when i tried starting it without the 2nd immob box swapped over?
Ill leave it for a few days and plug it in again, and if the codes come back ill swap the sensors out with the ones from the QG15 to see if that sorts it.... Failing that, ill swap/clean the MAF too!
Any suggestions on the constant MIL?
Well, yesterday my OBDII stuff arrived from Phil (thanks dude) and after a little issue with the software last night, i went and plugged it into the car this morning, which gave me
P0135 Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141 Bank 1 Sensor 2
HMMMMMM. Ive cleared the codes but the MIL is still on.... Does NATS put the MIL on? IE would it have triggered it when i tried starting it without the 2nd immob box swapped over?
Ill leave it for a few days and plug it in again, and if the codes come back ill swap the sensors out with the ones from the QG15 to see if that sorts it.... Failing that, ill swap/clean the MAF too!
Any suggestions on the constant MIL?
I can't fully remember but I think that's the front and rear o2/lambda's mate, if you check the esm there is a full list of the codes and what they are, Also nats can fire the mil light but now everything is correct for nats it wouldn't come back on. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few hours to reset the ecu? As the n16 ECUs are semi Intellegent so it may just need cleared to start fresh
And just so you know, if there is a Renault badge on show there will be a triple threat tag team kicking happening with me Paul and ed knocking some sense into you :lol:
- I'M ON MY MOOOBBIILLEEEE!!!!!!!! -
And just so you know, if there is a Renault badge on show there will be a triple threat tag team kicking happening with me Paul and ed knocking some sense into you :lol:
- I'M ON MY MOOOBBIILLEEEE!!!!!!!! -
So there is... DAMN thats twice in 2 days ive missed the obvious French fault :lol:
Ill disconnect the the battery when i get home from work tonight and leave it over night! Ill bring my boxing gloves then shall I? haha!
Well....
Decided to try and sort out the speedo yesterday, the problem being the needle just jumps up and down between 0-20mph whatever speed you are doing... First things first, checked the plug, which was broken and very loose. So i cut the plug off the 1.5 loom and soldered that on. Still the same problem. So I check continuity between the plug at the speedo pinion and the clocks inside the cabin. The wires are red/yellow and black/white. Heres the weird bit... There was continuity between the red/yellow from the pinion to the black/white in the cabin, and vice-versa. I double and triple checked this then decided to cut the wires at the pinion (again) and swap them round. Still the same problem. Hmmmm.
Now i know the pinion itself is working because it came out of the 1.5. So it now leads me to think either the clocks have broken? Or there isnt a speedo ring gear in the 1.8 gearbox (this could be due the fact the Sport+ it came from didnt use a speedo pinion, it got the speed from the ABS system.
So later on ill try swapping the clocks and if all else fails, then fuck it. Ill just leave it haha!
Decided to try and sort out the speedo yesterday, the problem being the needle just jumps up and down between 0-20mph whatever speed you are doing... First things first, checked the plug, which was broken and very loose. So i cut the plug off the 1.5 loom and soldered that on. Still the same problem. So I check continuity between the plug at the speedo pinion and the clocks inside the cabin. The wires are red/yellow and black/white. Heres the weird bit... There was continuity between the red/yellow from the pinion to the black/white in the cabin, and vice-versa. I double and triple checked this then decided to cut the wires at the pinion (again) and swap them round. Still the same problem. Hmmmm.
Now i know the pinion itself is working because it came out of the 1.5. So it now leads me to think either the clocks have broken? Or there isnt a speedo ring gear in the 1.8 gearbox (this could be due the fact the Sport+ it came from didnt use a speedo pinion, it got the speed from the ABS system.
So later on ill try swapping the clocks and if all else fails, then fuck it. Ill just leave it haha!
I've only just seen this. And I lol'd. hard.
Well then, been back to the garage today to see about these shiiiiiiiiite brakes.
First things first we put it up on the ramp and clamped all 4 brake flexis, pressed the brake pedal and it felt firm and good. Master Cylinder fault ruled out.
So one at a time we removed the flexi clamps. Front left made the pedal feel a little spongey, so bled that one and couple of bubbles came out. Pedal still felt a bit soft. Front right clamp removed, no change. Rear right removed and pedal went pretty much straight to the floor, same with the rear left. So this pointed the fault in teh direction of the rear brakes.
So off with the wheels and drums.... It didnt even seem like the shoes had been adjusted up when fitted. So after fannying around with the weird adjuster design for a little while, the shoes were adjusted on both sides, drums and wheels put back on, all clamps removed and pedal feels goooood
Woop woop!
So all that remains to sort out is the speedo, but new pinion should be on the way next week so hopefully all the niggles will be gone
First things first we put it up on the ramp and clamped all 4 brake flexis, pressed the brake pedal and it felt firm and good. Master Cylinder fault ruled out.
So one at a time we removed the flexi clamps. Front left made the pedal feel a little spongey, so bled that one and couple of bubbles came out. Pedal still felt a bit soft. Front right clamp removed, no change. Rear right removed and pedal went pretty much straight to the floor, same with the rear left. So this pointed the fault in teh direction of the rear brakes.
So off with the wheels and drums.... It didnt even seem like the shoes had been adjusted up when fitted. So after fannying around with the weird adjuster design for a little while, the shoes were adjusted on both sides, drums and wheels put back on, all clamps removed and pedal feels goooood
Woop woop!So all that remains to sort out is the speedo, but new pinion should be on the way next week so hopefully all the niggles will be gone
Cool.. looking forward to see this at japfest..
Glad its all coming together bud... be good to see you swell.. my Europe touring brother
Glad its all coming together bud... be good to see you swell.. my Europe touring brother
glad you got it worked out mate, but i'd look into those self adjust mechanisms as if they are fooked then this problem will return as the rears wear down. or maybe up the rear beam swap in the priorities list
Oh yes they :censored: were & were a :censored: ball-ache too!
They were fitted for the mot, only snag was when I adjusted the handbrake cable, I couldn`t get the console back obver the lever, so had to slacken it off a bit.